This is the first shots of the frame on the jig. I enjoy to to get as close as possible to perfection when it comes to fabrication, so I invested in a new tool that we sell on our website. It's called a SmartTool, and makes building frames like this a lot easier than in the past. It's a super-accurate digital level, and gives very precise readouts in inches, degrees or percents. I know for a fact that my jig table is perfectly level, and the frame stayed perfectly level, straight and square. I moved the table around on the floor until I had the right spot, then marked the floor around the base of the legs so I could keep it in exactly the same place. I had to slide a thin washer under one leg to get it just right, then I tacked the washer in place so it couldn't move.
I also learned from past experience - clamp the workpiece down tight and don't weld too much in one area. This time around I took the time to weld a couple welds, then walk away from it. You always need time to contemplate your next move anyway, so there's no reason to rush it. The frame stayed nice and level, and is less than 1/64" out of square anywhere and any way you want to measure it.
Before I ever started cutting and welding, I took all the measurements possible, built the frame in my head, then used my computer to draw up a working plan for the frame layout. I figured the ride height, and also figured enough rear frame kick-up to not ever have to worry about the rear end hitting the frame. I designed the frame wide, not narrow like a T-Bucket. This way I'll have more room for exhaust, etc. underneath the car. The frame fits right inside the outer edge of the body. That was what I thought anyway............

I know what you're thinking about my 1985 Chevy Blazer donor vehicle - that thing is just DOG-BUTT UGLY!
As it turns out though, it was the perfect candidate for a donor car. I had planned on using a Blazer rear end, since they are the correct width, plus they have a Chevy 5-bolt wheel pattern. It's the same rear end as used under the late model Camaros, so it will be plenty strong. I also plan on using the front disc brake rotors and calipers. I would love to have drum brakes on the roadster, since I want this to be a nostalgia style car, but the disc brakes are just too readily available and the cost is right for this project.
What I didn't expect was too get a nostalgia motor with the Blazer. Dave McLain, a friend and builder of a flathead powered T-Bucket, ran the numbers on the block and heads and guess what I have - a 1965 Chevy 283 with the original heads! I couldn't have ended up with a more perfect engine for a trad '27! Along with it came chrome valve covers, a chrome timing chain cover, Flowmaster mufflers and some other pretty useful items that will help the project along.
It even came with a Turbo 200 transmission. Seems that the owner started a V-8 Blazer project, then ended up selling it to the person that I bought it from in order to clear up some debt. I'm hoping that the previous owner thought the engine and transmission were worth putting in the Blazer as is, so I might get by without having to rebuild either one. I plan to do a mild cam and the usual nostalgic dress-up items.
Now for the best part.....I payed $350 for the whole thing!

I've made a little progress in the last few weeks. Some of the most recent advances have been the installation of the Pete & Jake's Ladder Bars and getting the rear end in place. I set the rear end in place on tubing that is tack welded to the frame. That holds the housing exactly at ride height so installing the bars would be a little easier.
To install the rear bars, I'm using rosettes through the main frame rails, just like the ones used to mount the front Hairpins. I also plan to install a bracket that will position the front Ladder Bar mount between it and the frame, but it's probably not really necessary for strength as much as it is my own piece of mind. As you can see in the pictures, the rear end mounts fit 360° around the housing, so if you have a rear end with ends on it already like the one I'm using, you have to split the mounts then weld them back together on the housing. I think mine turned out real well, and was even pleased enough with the welds not to cuss at myself after doing them!
The weld beads look good enough to paint, and the rear end will be hard to see once the car's on the ground anyway.
The thing you see clamped to the housing is a piece of 1/2" square tubing that I used to get the driveshaft alignment correct. The driveshaft in this car is going to run up hill to the rear end, since the engine is so low. I placed the engine as low as practical in the chassis without putting the oil pan on the ground, and it still looks like it sits fairly high compared to the frame.
The driveshaft will meet the rear end at 1° below center. Normally you would go a little more, but this rear end won't twist up much upon acceleration with the ladder bars holding things in place.

March 26, 2004
Man, Am I ever glad it's finally getting warm enough to get in the shop! I haven't been totally slack, but I sure haven't made much progress during the cold months. I'll get some new pictures on as soon as possible to show you some of the work I managed to do when we had some warm spells. The rear floorboards are glassed in, there is some more framework done, and I did get some other smaller items accomplished.
I've got the new Total Performance front spring mount modified and installed, and I re-installed the whole front end. The shop's had enough humidity in it over the winter to make surface rust on all my new hardware, so I pulled off the axle, spindles, hairpins, etc. and sanded and primered everything. There's a new Vintique Model A grille shell sitting in front of the engine, and I found a Horton T-bucket brake pedal assembly on ebay. A friend of mine donated a '40 Ford pick up steering column to the project, and my Flaming River Corvair steering box arrived.
The front floor board is cut and fit, but I won't install it until I figure out how I'm going to mount the brake pedal and steering column. While at the Performance & Restoration Trade Show, I met the owner of Old Dawg Street Rods, where I bought the roadster body. He promised me a new set of inner doors for the body. He said that he had worked on them to make them fit better, and he would trade me a new set for free - nice guy - he didn't have to do that for me.
The car is also on jack stands now instead of sitting at ride height, so I can get around it better. I ran brake lines on the rear end, and it's time to get under it and figure out fuel lines, exhaust, etc. Below are a few progress shots!......................RJay

You can see in a couple of the shots above what I've done to the frame. Since the frame is low and I've used the long style Pete & Jake's Ladder Bars, there's no room for frame crossmembers. The frame is as strong as any T-Bucket frame, but I like to overbuild a little when it comes to the chassis and frame, so I decided to add 1-1/2" square tubing crossmembers on TOP of the frame. This makes the frame rigid, ties the rear kick-ups into the main rails, and also provides a strong and sturdy platform to put the floor on. The seat will have a good base underneath it too so the structure on top of the frame has a lot of benefits. You can also see in the last picture how the floor is cut and glassed in so it sits right on top of the frame and upper structure. All together the frame now has the very front crossmember, one under the engine, the trans. x-member, the new ones under the floor board, two at the frame kick-up, one for the rear coil-overs, and one at the very rear - now that's a strong frame! No worry about tweaking or breakage here!